If you’re visiting Southwest Virginia in search of Appalachian history, consider starting in the Town of Chilhowie, located on the western edge of Smyth County. the history of Chilhowie is the history of Smyth County, and in many ways, the history of the expansion of America.
But first things first: what about that name? The name Chilhowie is pronounced “chill-HOW-whee,” and is reportedly derived from a Cherokee word meaning “Valley of Many Deer.” The Town’s website tells the story:
“During the late 1850’s, Mr. George Palmer suggested that the village growing up around Greever’s Switch be named Chilhowie. He was the proprietor of a Sulphur Springs Resort, north of the Town House, known as Chilhowie Springs. Chilhowie is an Indian phrase which means “Valley of Many Deer,” and had been used by the Indians to refer to a portion of the Middle Fork of the Holston Valley in what is now Smyth County. The name was adopted soon after Mr. Palmer suggested it.”
A self-guided tour of Historic Chilhowie
Our tour starts at the Smyth County Chamber of Commerce, located in the H. L. Bonham house. This is also the Visitor’s Center, with displays and plenty of information about the town. The house was built by Hezekiah Love Bonham in 1911 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. H.L. Bonham was a farmer and businessman who grew an apple orchard and had a successful apple business known as Bonsons Brand.
Heading north, across the Middle Fork of the Holston River and the railroad tracks, you’ll come to Main Street. The street is lined with historic buildings, including the former National Bank of Chilhowie on the corner, built in 1909. You can shop at boutiques and antique shops, and the Berry Home Center. This building was the former Vance Hardware store in the early 1900s. It was a very successful building materials, hardware, and farm store for several decades. Across the street is another building owned by Vance. It is now the Riverfront Restaurant. The main entrance is remarkable for the antique elevator you pass through. Be sure to look up to see the murals and mechanical gears. While you’re there, enjoy one of their scrumptious deserts!
Chilhowie Virginia: “Farthest Point West”
From here head west on Hwy. 11 to the edge of town and you’ll see two markers on the right. One marks the westernmost point of settlement by explorers in 1750. Dr Thomas Walker and Samuel Stalnaker explored this area and Stalnaker decided to settle here. The second marker indicates his dwelling, which existed in 1754. Later, in the 1840s, Thomas Patton surveyed the first land grant in Chilhowie. He built on a hill overlooking the Holston River valley, envisioning a great town. His Town House served as an outpost, a fort, and a meeting house for settlers. Today, the ruins of this site can be seen on top of the hill. The best viewing point is from Old Stage Road, off Hwy. 107 North, near the Sulphur Springs Cemetery. This cemetery dates to 1806 and was associated with the United Methodist Church.
Heading east on Old Stage Road you’ll see the John S. Apperson home on the left. It was built in 1869 by Apperson, who served as a surgeon in the Civil War and then practiced medicine in Chilhowie. The home and surrounding outbuildings are beautifully maintained. Next door sits the James D. Tate House, now the Bradley Funeral Home. The home was built in 1902 by Tate, an active businessman and promoter of improvements to the town.
Continuing on you’ll come to the United Methodist Church, dating to 1893. Construction materials for this church came from the original Methodist church site on Sulphur Springs Road. That site was also a campground and camp meeting place as early as 1819, which drew visitors from surrounding states. Madame Russell, whose church is in Saltville, lived for a time in a log home near here.
Turning right on Church Ave. will take you to the Robert Cole House on the right, which faces downhill toward the river. It was built in 1925 by Cole, a prominent merchant and farmer in town. This well-preserved building is now home to Antiques at Winterhurst.
Chilhowie had an African American community, which was located between the banks of the Holston River and the railroad tracks. The area was completely flooded in 1977 and the homes were destroyed. The residents were relocated and the site is now the Chilhowie Town Park, a large recreation area. The original First Baptist Church still stands.
The Revolutionary War History of Chilhowie
Leaving town, head east on Hwy. 11 (toward Marion), to the small community of Seven Mile Ford. The name refers to a place to ford the Holston River that is seven miles from the ford at Royal Oak, now the town of Marion. Take the road that veers off to the left, Seven Mile Ford Road. This area was settled by the Campbell and Preston families in the 1760s. General William Campbell fought in the Revolutionary War. He and his wife, Elizabeth Henry Campbell Russell, built a home here that they called Aspenvale. The home is gone but is marked by a large stone marker on the north side of Seven Mile Ford Rd. Nearby is the Aspenvale Cemetery, where many of the Campbell and Preston ancestors are buried. William Campbell, his widow Elizabeth, and General Francis Preston all rest here. The cemetery is noted in the National Register of Historic Places.
The Charles Preston House is visible past the cemetery and on top of the large hill to the north. This residence was built in the late 1800s, overlooking Aspenvale, and was once a magnificent home. Preston had to sell it to pay off his debts and the house was used as a barn.
Regional Historic Sites
One more place in Seven Mile Ford is noteworthy, located back on Hwy. 11. It is the Presbyterian Church, built by John Preston and his family in 1880. It started as a one-room wooden structure and was remodeled to add wings in the 1920s. A historical marker for Seven Mile Ford is nearby.
Nature lovers will want to visit the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area, located south of Chilhowie via Whitetop Road (Hwy. 600). The National Forest Service manages over 200,000 acres of spectacular scenery, with multiple outdoor activities and campgrounds. Virginia’s two highest peaks, Mount Rogers and Whitetop Mountain, are within the park. At the junction of Whitetop Rd. and Konnarock Road (Hwy. 603), be sure to visit the Blue Ridge Discovery Center. The building was once the Konnarock Training School and has an interesting history, dating back to 1924. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the site has a marker that tells part of the story. Be sure to go inside to learn more.